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GOTHENBURG GOES GASTRO
A crisp glass of Chablis and a platter of buxom oysters perched on a bed of crushed ice look up at me invitingly.
My companion and I toast to an unexpected gastronomic experience as we slip one oyster after another down our grateful throats.
Who knew Gothenburg, Swedens second biggest city, would be so wonderful? Sure, our trip had been promoted as a gastronomic experience but we naively thought of meatballs and roll mops. What we got was first class nosh.
Gothenburg was never a place on my must see list but having taken advantage of the direct Ryanair flights from Stansted to this compact and sophisticated city I can now add it to my favourites.
Aesthetically, it is quite something. Gothenburg dates from the 17th century and is criss-crossed by canals and bordered by a moat that was part of the original fortifications.
The city, just a 25-minute bus ride from the airport, thoroughly lives up to its nickname as the green city. Trees everywhere, vast parks and flower fields right in the centre and hardly a piece of litter to be seen drifting in the gentle wind speak volumes of residents who take pride in their home.
Everywhere is accessible by foot, though the trams are a good way of getting around.
It is a city of culture and some beautiful architecture but I digress, because we are here to sample the thriving restaurant scene (the city boasts no fewer than four Michelin-star restaurants), and so we begin at what the locals call the Fish Church, so called because of its ecclesiastical architecture.
Surrounded by mountains of shrimp, caviar, salmon and a variety of other seafood that the Gothenburgers love so much, we slink into one of the small cafes for our oyster hit.
To top off our lunchtime snack we take a short walk into the citys old town, Haga. The narrow, cobbled streets are a hive of activity with street performers, a multitude of dinky shops selling jewellery and other trinkets, and dozens of cafes scenting the air with a tantalising drift of cinnamon buns and coffee.
Theres nothing Gothenburgers like more than a coffee, beer or wine in the sun. So at the earliest hint of spring starting to show its colours, out come the pavement chairs and tables - with the wonderful touch of fleecy blankets at the ready should a chilly breeze still try to get one over the warming rays of the sun.
We settle in one and sip good, strong, powerful coffee accompanied by a pastry or two. Actually, we would have gone pastry crazy if my companion had not reminded me that we had a 7pm reservation (they eat early in these parts) with a specially planned menu at one of the citys top
restaurants.
Avenyn No 1 Restaurant is a beautifully restored 19th century building serving up three different dining experiences, from fine dining to bistro-style meals, with a bar under the same roof. Its dining roots lie
in traditional Swedish cuisine - making a firm comeback after being shunned by locals for a while - with innovative Mediterranean touches. The restaurant, with its plush booths, elegantly high roof and
floor-to-ceiling curtains, openly boasts at employing some of the finest chefs in Sweden. And the proof was on our plates.
After an aperitif - the best Bloody Mary this side of anywhere - we are in seafood heaven again with pike on a bed of seafood salad. This was finished off by the most delicious tiramisu I have even eaten.
Gothenburg is far from isolated in world tastes, and also, contrary to popular belief, caters to most budgets. In fact, on weekdays many restaurants offer a main course, salad buffet, soft drinks and coffee for as little as £5. Or whet your appetite for the After Work experience, which combines happy hour on drinks with free food and snacks.
If budget is less of a concern, spend an early evening at Barrique Wine Bar. Barrique is truly something special. Combining exquisite tapas-style food (like local specialties caviar and oysters) and sublime
wines from around the world, the passion, enthusiasm and knowledge of its owners can be tasted in each morsel and drop. It is fast developing a smitten clientele with its constantly changing wine themes and innovative menus, showcasing the best from around the world.
There is much that stands out in this city but none more than the Gothenburg people. Forget the old myth that the Swedes are a cool bunch. Wherever we went, people were open and friendly and interested in finding out where we were from, why we were here and what did we think
of the place.
Aside from the gastronomy and cafe culture, take a city tour, either by bus, tram or on foot. With my knowledge of Gothenburgs history sketchy at best, a two-hour walking tour on a glorious spring day taught me more than any guide book would have done. Like the sculpture of inventor John
Ericsson, whose crumpled trousers so outraged locals early last century that the artist, sculptor Ingel Fallstedt, committed suicide.
Its worth putting an evening aside to experience the world-renowned Gothenburg Opera House, situated splendidly in the central harbour and only a five-minute walk from the city centre. And theres a plethora of museums, offering diversity from art to historic exhibitions.
A fantastic and cost-effective way of making the most of your stay is the Gothenburg Pass (£16 for adults, £12 for children), giving unlimited access for 24 hours to all the main attractions, public
transport and Gothenburgs most famous attraction, the Liseberg amusement park.
Just 45 minutes drive north-west of the city is Marstrand Island. Besides gorgeous cliffs and quaysides to explore, the island - one of about 3,000 between the city and the Norwegian border - offers fantastic swimming, bars, restaurants and some excellent hiking trails.
By early Sunday afternoon we abandon the rest of the planned itinerary to do as the locals do and spend a sunny few hours at a cafe sipping wine and indulging in yet more seafood. We order the popular shrimp sandwich - a delicious affair that only gives a nod to bread and takes up the entire plate.
Sated and satisfied we leave this lovely city. Next time we really must try Swedish meatballs!
TRAVEL FACTS
:: Bess Manson was a guest of the city of Gothenburg, which offers
further information on short breaks in the city either on 0046 316 12500
or online at www.gothenburg.com
For enquiries within the UK, you can call Visit Sweden on 020 7108 6168
or go online at www.visitsweden.com
:: She flew Ryanair, which offers direct flights into Gothenburg City
Airport (Save) from Stansted (three daily), Prestwick (five weekly) and
Dublin (three weekly) from £25 return, including taxes. The actual fare
can be as low as 1p each way. Reservations on www.ryanair.com
:: Bess Manson was also a guest at the four-star Scandic Europa Hotel in
Gothenburg which has special offers on overnight B&B this summer from
around £60 per room. Reservations: 0046 317 516500 and
www.scandic-hotels.com
:: Packages can also be booked online at www.gothenburg.com, which also
supplies a free Gothenburg Pass for discounted rates to galleries and
attractions, the Liseberg amusement park, and public transport.
:: Further images of Gothenburg are available from the West Sweden
Tourist Board through Travel PR, contact Ian Bradley, on 020 8891 4440,
or email i.bradley@travelpr.co.uk
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